The man who ran the whole city

That bronze figure on the Vrijdagmarkt is Jacob van Artevelde, Ghent's most famous rebel-statesman. In the 14th century he more or less ran the city and the county, juggling England, France and the wool trade, until a mob decided otherwise and his story ended violently right here. His statue now presides over markets and pigeons. Ghent has always been suspicious of anyone who gets too powerful — including the people who make its statues.